Sewing-machine.



J. KIEWICZ.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIGATION FILED JAN.20.1911.

Patented Jan. 9, 1912.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

J. KIEWICZ.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 20. 1911.

Patented J an. 9, 1912.

2 SHBETSSHEET 2.

jicc'eve a-a 72270 Zi .g QM MM rm I To all whom it may concern:

ATENT OFFICE.

JOHN KIEWICZ, 0F HYDE PARK, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Be it known that 1,,JOHN Kmwicz, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Hyde Park, county of Norfolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts. v

This invention has for its object the production of a sewing machine particularly adapted for attaching a rib or strip, such as a cord, to one face of a fabric by a series of stitches cooperating with and penetrating the cord and the fabric, respectively,

.30 for connecting the inner sole, upper,\.and

but which are invisible at the face of the fabric farthest from the cord.

.One of the special purposes for which this invention is designed is the manufacture of inner soles for welted boots and shoes, the inner sole being made of thin stock and having attached to one face thereof a rib, strip or cord extending from the shank portion near one edge around the fore part of the inner sole and back tothe shank portion near the opposite edge-thereof. In the manufacture of the boot or shoe such rib, cord or strip, (the terms being herein used synonymously,) is utilized welt, in a well known manner, and it takes the place of a lip or feather formerlyused structed and arranged my sewing machine and which required the inner sole to be made of relatively thick and expensive stock.

More recently inner soles have been made in large numbers of two superposed plies of canvas or similar fabric cemented together, and with an interposed rib or cord carried around the forepart from the shank, one of the plies of fabric being molded closely about the rib or cord. For some classes of work inner soles of this character are objectionable and there is a 'great demand for a cheap and serviceable inner sole which can be made of thin leather stock or the like with a welt-attaching rib or cord, and such an inner sole can be produced rapidly and cheaply by the sewing .machine embodying my present 1nvent1on.

Inasmuch as stitching on the face of an inner sole is objectionable I have so conthat the fabric is bent before it is pene- Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Jan. 9,1912.

Application filed January 20, 1911. Serial No. 603,656.

trated by the needle so that the latter may enter and its point emerge from the same side or faceof the fabric to produce a blind stitch, the needle on alternate thrusts penetrating and passing through the cord, of any suitable'character, the concatenation of the two sets of stitchessecurely uniting the fabric and the cord in a neat and durable manner.

The various novel features of my invention will be fully described in the suboined specification and particularly pointed out in the following claims.

Figure 1 is a top plan view of a sufficient portion of a sewing machine to be under-' stood, embodying one form of my present invention, the overhanging arm and its ad-' juncts being omitted, a part of the bed-plate also bein omitted to show portions "of the mech'anis which would otherwise be hidden; Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the apparatus illustrated in Fig.1, with a part broken away on the line 2, Fig. 1, a por-' tion of .the overhanging arm, the presserfoot, bender and bender-bar, and the work or stock and the adjacent cord are -also shown; Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the cam for controlling the movement of the feed-block; Fig. 4 is an enlarged sectional detail taken on the line 4='4,' Fig. 1, looking toward theleft, but with thefeed-block in elevation, the work or: stock being shown in section and the cord in elevation, the various parts beingshown just as the bender is about to descend; Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 of the feed-block and "adjacent parts, but with the same position for the needle to penetrate the cord on its next forward stroke or thrust; Fig. 6 is a trans verse sectional detail on the line 6-6, Fig. 5, with the cord crossing the path of the needle; Fig. 7 is a similar sectional view but showing the bend formed in the-work in readiness to be penetrated by the needle,

the cord being positioned below the needle 8 is an underside view of anpath; Fig.

inner sole having a cord attached :thereto by the sewing machine.embodiedherein.

For convenience hereinafter I shall des- .ignate the stock or wfabric 'in which the blind stitchesare-taken as the work, indigether to form a strong cord, but it is to be understood that my lnvent-ion is not restricted to an attached member'of that particular character or material. 5 In the construction of the sewing-machine in accordance with, my present invention I have utilized a portion of the aparatus shown and described in United t-ates Patent No. 404,863 granted June 11, 1889' to John Reece for finishing buttonhole pieces, but material changes have been made in certain important features to be pointed out hereinafter.

The bed-plate A, the overhanging arm A (partly shown in Fig. 2) the vertically reciprocating bender-bar A actuated by the link A through a vibrating lever mounted on the arm A and not shown herein, the presser-foot B and its bar B; the rotating main shaft A and its attached cam disk 6 the eye-pointed needle a secured to the needle-bar a reciprocated in bearings a in a yoke-like frame A and the link I) connected at one end by a stud 2 with a collar on the needle-bar and at its other end pivoted'on a crank-pin b" on the disk 6 to: reciprocate the needle-bar, may be and are all substantially as in the said patent to Reece, except that herein frame or bed A" of the machine by screws v3, for in my present invention the needle bar has no lateral vibration but is reciprocated in a single, fixed path below the bedplate. As will be polnted outlater the bender is actuated from a second rotating shaft, in the present invention, instead of from the shaft A as-in the Reece patent.

The needle-guide b fulcrumed at b? is raised/and lowered-by. the cam-shaped periphery'of the disk 72 which acts-upon the spring finger 5 attached to' .the arm 8' extended at one end under the needle-guide and at its other end secured by a'screw 9 to a stand 10 of the .main frame, see Fig. 1, all substantially as in the Reece patent, the upturned end of the needle-guide rising. and falling in an opening in the throat-plate, as will be pointed out hereinafter. In said patent the part of the guide which cooperates with the needle is shown as.beveled, while herein said partis shown asslightly grooved or notched, but the function of said guide is the same, namely, to steady the needle on its forward thrust as it is about to penetrate the material.

It will be manifest that the needle a makes a complete reciprocation for every revolution of the shaft A and asherein the work is bent, and penetrated" by the needle, only on each alternate forward. thrust ofthe needle the bender is actuated from a second shaft 20, having an attached gear 21 meshing with. and driven by a gear the frame A is held fixedly-on the main of the gears being such that shaft A revolves twice for each revolution of the shaft 20.

The lower end of the link A is forked at 23 to embrace shaft 20 and has a 'roll 24, see dotted lines Figs. 2 and 4, which travels in the groove 25 of a cam disk 26 fast on shaft 20, whereby the bender-bar A is de-' pressed and elevated at every revolution of shaft 20, and as shown in Fig. 2 the camgroove is just about to -"co6perate with roll 24'to effect the descent of the bender bar and its attached bender 27. The lower end of said bender is flattened and reciprocates foot B resting upon the work,- and bends the work in a grooved throat-plate, to be described, the bend lying in the direction of the feed. A throat-plate 28 is let into a suitable recess in the bed-plate A,"

said throat-plate having quite a deep longitudinal cord-guiding groove 29 formed therein, the bottom of said groove bein'g'below the surface of the bed-plate, see Figs.

4: and 5, and it is slotted longitudinally at 30 below the bender, an offset part 31 of the slot, Fig. 1, permitting the upturned part of the needle-guide b to rise and fall therein.

As shown in Figs. 6 and 7 the side walls of the cord-guiding groove 29 are 'oppo sitely apertured at 29 for the passage of the needle across the groove near the upper part thereof, said groove receiving and guiding the cord 0" beneath the work. w",

and the latter isubent into the groove by the descent of the bender, as will be readily understood.

' A toothed feed-block 32, secured toor form ing a part of a feed-bar 33, enters the slot 30 of the grooved throat-plate directly beneath the needle path, and said feed-blockis moved longitudinally and vertically in the slotby means .to be described, the toothed face of the block .being longitudinally grooved or concaved at 34, Figs. '6 and 7, to provide a seat for and to position the cord just beneath the needle during a part of the cycle. of the machine.

and rock in a'seat 35 in the bed A of the machine, an adjustable stop. 36 being arranged to cooperate withalug 37 on the feed- 1120 The feed is from left to right, viewing Figs. 4 and 5, and the lefthand end ofthe feed-bar is mounted to slide bar to determine the starting point'of the feed-stroke.

' The inner end of the feed bar. 1s connected with the free end of a spring 65 22 on the shaft A, the relative diameters arm brretractor 38 attached at 39 t o theunder side of the bed-plate and depending therefrom, said spring arm normally tending to retract the feed-bar to the position shown in Fig. 5 and to depress its inner end, as shown-in Fig. 4, the retractive action of the spring arm effecting the return'stroke of the. feed-block to starting position and the depressing action serving to lower the feedblock from. engagement with the cord. A disk 40 fast on the shaft 20 has its periphery cam shaped, presenting a high part 41 and a low part 42, Fig. 3, and one side of said disk is provided with a segmental cam lump or projection 43, this cam disk cooperating with a lever 44 having a horizontal fulcrum 45 on a block 46 pivoted to rock on a vertical pivot 47 depending from the bed-plate. The free end of the lever passes under the feed-bar 33and rests in an elongated notch 48 in its lower edge, said lever having lips or shoulders 49, 50, Fig. 4, which cooperate respectively with the periphery of the cam disk 40 and the segmental projection 48 thereon.

\Vhen the feed-bar and its block 32 are in the position shown in Fig. 5 the high part 41 of the edge *cam is'acting upon the shoulder 49 to hold the free end of lever '44 elevated, and at such time the feed-block is stationary and positively held in elevated position, beneath and at the minimum distance from the needle path, the toothed face of the feedblock being in engagement with the cord 0", the latter being thereby positioned in the needle path and supported directly thereunder, while the work w" is substantially flat and held on the throat-plate 28 by the presser B. The timing of the mechanism is such that when the parts just referred to are positioned as in Figs. 5 and 6 the needle a is moved forward, penetrates the cord,

and carries the needle-threadnthrough it,

the loop of needle-thread being entered by the shuttle-thread s, the shuttle C, indicated by dotted lines Fig. 1, being of any usual or suitable construction and being actuated by usual mechanism common to sewing machines of {this type. then the needle is thrustinto the cord the latter tends to bend in front of the needle, and the latter tends to slip off the cord, butthis tendency is overcome by the feed-block, for it not only vertically supports the cord but hb'lds it;

laterally against displacement. by the side walls of the groove '34 in the feed block,

' .The stitch having been formed in thecord 0. the needle is re racted, the feed-block supporting the cord directly ben ath the needle during the penetrating and retracting strokes thereof, and as the needle is withdrawn from the cord the side cam 43 acts .on the shoulder 50"of lever 44 and. swings the latter to the right viewing I ig. 5, so that the feed-block 32, which is still elevated by the high part 41 .of the edge cam, is moved to the right, and the teeth of said feed-block act upon'the cord lying in the groove 34 aiid efliect the feed of the cord and the work 20* to the right, flexing the spring arm 38. As the feed-stroke is completed the low part 42 of the edge cam permits said spring arm 38 to depress the inner end of the feed-bar, lowering the feed-block away from the cord, see Fig; 4. Now the bender 27 descends, by the mechanism previously describedfand bends the work 20* into the groove 29 see F 7, and tlie needle (4 makes its forward thrust, this time penetrating the bend in the work and carrying the loop of needle-thread through the bend to be entered by the shuttle-thread, to form the blind stitch in the work. During this operation the side cam 43 has ceased to act on the shoulder 50 of lever 44, and the spring arm 38 acts to swing said lever to the left, Figs. 4 and 5, about the vertical pivot- 47,

and thereby the feed-bar and feed-block will be moved to the left, as far as permitted by the adjustable stop 36. As the needle is withdrawn not; the bend'the part 41 of the edge cam again tibtiperates with the shoulder 49, swings up the-lever 44 on its horizontal fulcrum 45 and i1.- feed-block 32 is positively lifted into engagement with the cord of, elevating the latter and the work w until the cord is again vertically and laterally positioned and upheld in the path of the needle, to be penetrated thereby on the next 1 forward thrust of the needle, completing the cycle, for the feed-block is now in position at the starting end'of the feed stroke. Thus on one forward stroke the needle penetrates the cord, which is fixedly held in position by the positively elevated feed-block and the presser-foot B resting upon the work 10 the feed-block affording a firm support for the cord directly beneath the needle as the latter penetratesthe cord, and this fixed position and firm, positive support of the cord'is maintained until the needle has passed through the cord and been withdrawn therefrom, forming a stitch in the cord, and thereafter,-but before the bend is formed in the work w the feed takes place, effected by the cooperation of the feed-block with the cord and on the next forward stroke of the needle the bend in the work is positioned for penetration by the needle, for the formation of the blind stitch in the work.

By the described cycle of operation the cord is securely attached to the work, the stitching being invisible at the face of the workfarthest from the cord, and the stitching connecting said cord with the work is drawn around the portion of the cord nearest the work, and practically invisible when the stitches are drawn taut by usual take-up devices forming no part of this invention. The position of the feed-block directly beneatn the needle path provides for direct support and positive control of the cord when the needle cooperates therewith, at a point immediately adjacent the needle. Inasmuch as alternate stitches are formed in the work and the intervening stitches are formed in the cord .the latter is very firmly and securely attached to the work, so that the machine shown and described herein 'is particularly adapted for making corded innersoles such, as hereinbefore referred to and illustrated in Fig. 8. It is important that the cord be held firmly in position, both laterally and vertically for penetration by the needle on alternate forward thrusts of the latter, particularly if the cord be hard twisted or presents considerable resistance to penetration by the needle, and it will be seen that thegripping or clamping action at this time effected by the elevated and stationary feed-block upholding the cord directly beneath the needle, and the cotiperation .of the presser-foot is positive and exact, permitting no-movement of the cord-during the cooperation of the needle therewith. The groove 29 in the throat-plate guides the cord both in its longitudinal movement when the feed takes place and vertically "when the feed-block rises and falls.

Changes or modifications in details of construction and arrangement lnay be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention as set forth in the claims annexed hereto.

' Having fullydescribed 7 my invention,

. what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. In asewing machine, a throat plate having a slotted cord guiding groove, a stitching mechanism including a needle, and

means to reciprocate it in a path trans-' versely of the groove, a vibrating bender to intermittingly, engage and bend the work into the slotted portion of the groove, a cord positioning feed block having a concaved cord engaging surface and cord engaging teeth and located directly beneath the needle path and movable in the slotted portion of the groove, and means to operate said feed block to position the cord in the path of the needle.

2. In a' sewing machine, a throat-plate having a slotted cord-guiding groove, a stitching mechanism. including a needle, and means to reciprocate 'it in a path transversely of the groove, a vibrating bender to intermittingly engage and bend the work into the slotted portion of the groove, a cord positioning feed-block having a concaved cord-engaging surface and cord-engaging teeth. a-nd located directly beneath the needle path and movable in the slotted portion of the groove, means to elevate said feed-block toward the needle path thereby to place a cord sustained by the feed-block in position to be penetrated by the needle and to hold said feed-block stationary in its elevated position while said needle penetratesand is withdrawn from the portion of the cord immediately above and upheld by said feed-block and then to give said feedblock' a forward feeding movement while in its elevated position with its teeth in engageunent with the cord, the concaved cord-engaging surface acting to sustain the cord laterally against the thrust of the needle when said cord is upheld and penetrated by the needle, and means to depress thefeedblock and return it to neutral position while the bender descends to form a bend in the Work. I

3. In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having a cord-guiding groove longitudinally the feed-block, the. cord when penetrated by the needle being upheld beneath the lat-, ter' by the feed-block, and mechanism to effect the actuation of the feed-block, said 'mechanism comprising means to elevate the feed-block and then to maintain said feedblock at rest for a suflicient length of time to permit the needle to penetrate the cord and then withdraw therefrom, while the cord is upheld by the feed-block directly under the needle, and then to give said feedblock a forward movement to feed the cord.

4. In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having a cord-guiding groove longitudinally slotted in its bottom and at right angles to the needle-path, a feed-block having a toothed face longitudinally grooved and vertically and longitudinally movable in the slotted part of the groove, a vertically reciprocating bender to intermittingly engage and bend, the 'work into the said groove, stitch-forming mechanism, including a horizontally-reciprocating eye-pointed needle to penetrate, on successive forward thrusts, a bend in the work and acord at the under side of the work positioned in the needle path by the feed-block, the latter en gaging and supporting the cord vertically and laterally when penetrated by the needle, and positively acting means to maintain the feed-block elevated and stationary during each cord-penetrating thrust of the needle the next forward thrust of the needle intov a bend in the work.

In a sewing-machine, a throat-plate having a cord-guiding groove longitudinally slot-ted in its bottom and at right anglesto the needle path, a cord-positioning feedblock having a concaved operative face and vertically and longitudinally movable in the slotted part of the groove, a vertically reciprocating bender to intermittingly engage and bend the work into the slotted portion of the groove, stitch-forming mechanism, including an eye-pointed needle reciprocated in a fixed path to penetrate, on successive forward thrusts, a bend in the work and a cord at the underside of the work positioned in the needle path by the feed-block, a longitudinally slidable and vertically swinging bar on which the feed-block is mounted, a

cam cooperating with said bar to lift it positively thereby to place a cord in said groove in position to be penetrated by the needle, said cam being provided with a dwell of considerable length which maintains the feed-block stationary in elevated position during each cord-penetrating thrust and subsequent retraction of the needle, said cam having also a lateral portion whichbecomes active after the termination of the dwell to move said bar longitudinally to effect the feed-stroke of the block while it is elevated and in engagement with the cord, and a single spring cooperating with the bar to depress it and the feed-blotik while the bender descends and to return said bar and the feed-block to the starting end, of .its feed stroke while the needle is penetrating the bend in the work.

6. In a sewing-machine, a longitudinally slotted throat-plate having means to guide a cord at right angles to the needle-path, a vertically reciprocating bender to intermittingly engage the work above the slotted portion of said throat-plate and bend the work thereat, stitch-forming mechanism, including a horizontally-reciprocating :eyepointed needle to penetrate the bends in the work on each alternate forward thrust, and to penetrate a cord held at the underside of the work on each intervening forward thrust of the needle, a feed-block having cord-engaging teeth and movable longitudinally and vertically in the slotted portion of the throat-plate, the toothed face of the feed-v block, being also longitudinally concaved "to receive and uphold the cord and to support it laterally against the thrust of the needle, and means to maintain said feed-block elevated and stationary duringthe cord-penetrating thrust of the needle and to effect.

the feed-stroke of said ,block prior to the next forward thrust of the needle, and while the cord is engaged by the teeth of the feedblock, the latter descending and returning to starting position while the bender forms a bend in the work, the feed-block then rising into engagement with the cord to position and support it for penetration by the needle on the next cord-penetratingthrust.

7. In a sewing-machine, a feed-bar movable longitudinally and also adapted to rock in a plane at right angles to the needle path, a feed-block having a concaved operative face and carried by said bar, an elevating and a feeding cam to effect, respectively and in sequence, a positive rise of said bar and the feed-block and a longitudinal movement thereof to feed, a spring arm engaging the end of the bar to lower it and the feed-block and also to effect the return stroke of said parts, said elevating cam having a dwell portion to maintain the feed-block stationary after its rise and prior to the feed stroke, stitch-forming mechanism, including a reciprocating, eye-pointed needle, :1 throatplate slotted for the reception of the feedblock and provided with means to guide a cord beneath the work, and a bender to form a bend in the work prior to each alternate forward thrust of the needle, when the feedblock is depressed, said feed-block being held elevated and stationary on the intervening thrusts of the needle to position the cord for penetration thereby.

8. In a sewing machine, a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, a longitudinally grooved throat-plate slotted in its-bottom, a feed bill movable longitudinally and also up and down, a feed-block having a concaved operative face and sustained by said feed bar and occupying the slot of the throat-plate, a lever engaging said feed-bar, an elevating and a feeding cam acting on said lever and operating throughthe latter to first raise the feed-block thereby to place a cord in the groove in position to be penetrated by the needle, then to cause a dwell in the movement of the feed-block while a stitch is being inserted through the cord, and subsequently to move the feed-block forward. a bender to form a bend in the work in the path of the needle when the feed-block is lowered, and a resilient retractor to lower said feedblock and also to effect the return stroke thereof after its feeding movement, the positive elevation of the feed-block lifting a cord in the groove of the throat-plate and positioning it for penetration by the needle on one forward thrust, while descent of the feed-block permits the bender to bend the work in the needle path to be penetrated'by the needle on its next forward thrust, the formation of a bend in the work depressing the cord below the needle path.

In a sewing machine, a reciprocating eye-pointed needle, a longitudinally grooved throat-plate slotted in its bottom, a feed bar movable longitudinally and also up and down; a feed block having a concaved operative face and sustained by said feed bar and occupying the slot of the throat-plate, a lever engaging said feed bar, and provided with two lips, an elevating ca'm engaging.

is inserted through and withdrawn from the cord, at fdlsding cam acting on the other lip to give the feed block forward feeding move- 15 ment" after the needle is withdrawn, and a bender to form a bend in the work in the path of the needle when the feed block is lowered;

In testimony whereof, I have signed 20 name to this specification,in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JOHN KIEWICZ. Witnesses:

THOMAS J. OARTY,

FREDERICK W. DAVISON. 

